Do you know that? You talk your mouth frayed and in the end people do what they have always done: namely buy what they know. The willingness to try something new, let alone find it good, is ... let's say diplomatically, a rare commodity.
No, of course there are no THE people! If we ask consumer researchers, we get 1000 conditions for when which target group buys what and why at what price. The bottom line, however, is: supposedly “new” is and has always been there, but must always be at least 80 percent the same and therefore known in order to be accepted.
So your wine may differ from what your customers know about you by a maximum of 20 percent from year to year? Yes, this deviation can be precisely quantified and measured. Food and product designers pay meticulous attention to the fact that customers don't notice a deviation of less than 20 percent; especially not if it can be done slowly. But if the deviation is more than 20 percent, it becomes noticeable. And immediately the product is viewed with skepticism and no longer bought.
To convince customers of something new, that is to say to put forward any kind of arguments, seems to be a wasted effort. If the intention to persuade also appears moral, political - or possibly even lobbyist - the stove is immediately off completely. Resistance and rejection are then inevitable, no matter how enriching the new product may be.
Never touch a running system. Now seriously?
I think the statement “If it ain't broken, don't fix it” is even better. Loosely translated: If it's not broken, don't fix it. Hands off! We have always done this! The newfangled stuff doesn't come into my house ... and so on and so forth. Does that mean you only have to take action when things no longer work? Well, I don't know about you, but as far as I know it is usually much too late by then.
I have now spoken of “products” in general above. The situation is much more complex with food, luxury goods and especially wine: that a wine is a wine can possibly be seen at a glance. But not exactly how wine A differs from wine B or C in detail. And that's exactly what matters in this product group. Anyone can do Lemberger, but it makes the difference! This is measured in terms of reproduction or repeatability. And that is less than 20 percent for wine because there are so many varieties. The variability, however, takes place within the 20 percent, where no one notices it anyway. What a paradox!
Why don't we allow ourselves to work out the 80 percent as our neighbors in France, Italy or Spain do?
Here the focus of the wine is namely on the terroir, i.e. the origin of the location and the own vineyard and not in the technical understanding in the cellar or the much-invoked varietal typicality.
Arguments do not convince, but people: When you, dear colleagues, are tired of fulfilling all the supposedly important attributes for a good wine, of having to follow every recommendation - and then still have the feeling that it is not quite enough , then they finally start making authentic wines. Wines that only you make, from grapes that come from your vineyard or Wingert and are therefore unique. You are not obliged to anyone except yourself. Assuming good craftsmanship practice, you will do what you and only you are convinced of. If you have the slightest doubt about certain measures: leave them out! Just because someone expects these measures from you - for technical, moral, political or other reasons: Leave them out!
You have to stand behind your unique product. Then all the tests and examinations that urge you in this or that direction can confidently slip down your back. You decide what good wine means to you. It is up to you to let excellent individuality prevail. Serious consultants will support you in this. Really good ones Not standardized test procedures will support you on your way and correct them benevolently; but it certainly doesn't please them. These test procedures will reflect your positioning in an international comparison, and that is justified. And open-minded connoisseurs will kiss your feet for your integrity - so that their personal convictions, standards and values can be found in their wine.
The right way ... or not?
The majority of German winemakers don't do any of that. It tries to please everyone. First to the legislator, then to THE consumer, who doesn't exist at all, then to the laboratory, then to the consultant, then to the family, then to the bank ... And at the very end, with a bit of luck, a small part of the wine remains, which is his own Belongs to its producer. If you are unlucky, go this route for a lifetime. Torn, with the feeling of not having made it to the goal with all efforts, whatever that may be.
The wines have to be fruity, clear, brilliant, clean and dense - and cheap at the same time. It says dry, it is sweet; light and drinkable is the requirement in order to be perceived as good by as many people as possible. A bit of statistics: In Germany, fruity sells 80 times better than non-fruity! So fruity wines are needed, regardless of the price. We have practiced this in Germany for 50 years and 80 percent of the winemakers, opinion makers and consumers believe that this is the right way to go.
But there is another one, namely that of originality, of controlled inaction: “We make wine in the vineyard”, one hears everywhere. This wine tastes different every year and corresponds to the great variety that is inherent in the product, but is not compliant with standards. It is not blind actionism that has the say here, but a knowledgeable engagement. And a philosophy of accompanying rather than stabilizing.
These wines polarize are unique.
If you now have the feeling that as a writer I would prefer the second form of stylistics, I can tell you that this way of thinking is not mine. It is good that there is such great diversity. However, there are a few basic rules for me: Produced as sustainably as possible, without poison and water pollution, but with a high level of biodiversity and an equally high fun factor, wines should be all of this.
Because with everything else we don't want to damage our liver.
Martin greets you
Source: Martin Darting - WINE System